Ficool

Chapter 8 - chapter six

STYLING (ETHNICITY)

Understanding the Diversity:

Beauty comes in all shapes, sizes, and shades. Each ethnicity boasts its own distinctive eye shape, lid space, and lash structure. As beauty professionals, it is essential to understand these variations and recognize the beauty within each unique feature. By tailoring lash extension lengths to individual ethnicities, we can accentuate the natural beauty of every client, highlighting their best features while respecting their cultural heritage.

The Asian Perspective:

Asian eyes tend to have a unique set of characteristics, such as monolids or low crease placement. Lash extensions for Asian clients typically involve achieving a lifted, elongated appearance that enhances their eye shape. To achieve this, shorter to medium-length extensions are often used to maintain a natural yet defined look. The emphasis is on creating a delicate, fluttery effect that complements the gentle curves and softness of Asian eyes. Asian eyelashes often have straighter and shorter characteristics. Clients of Asian descent may prefer styles that enhance the natural curl and provide added length. C-curl lashes are popular for creating a lifted appearance, while a mix of lengths can add dimension to the lash line.

Middle Eastern Eyelash Styling:

Middle Eastern cultures may appreciate more dramatic and voluminous lash styles. Longer lengths and thicker diameters can be incorporated to achieve a glamorous and captivating look. Lash technicians often focus on creating lush, full lash sets that enhance the eyes' expressive qualities.

The African Descent Perspective:

Lash extension customization for clients of African descent presents exciting opportunities to embrace boldness and drama. Many individuals with African heritage have naturally long, curly lashes that lend themselves well to voluminous extensions. The focus is often on providing length and fullness while considering the client's eye shape and preferences.

Longer, thicker extensions can create a stunning frame that beautifully showcases their expressive eyes, exuding confidence and glamour. African lashes may vary in curl pattern and thickness. Styles for individuals of African descent often involve emphasizing the natural curl and opting for fuller, voluminous looks. Extensions with varying lengths and curls can provide a striking, yet natural appearance.

Western Eyelash Styling:

Western beauty standards often embrace a variety of lash styles, ranging from natural to bold. Lash technicians catering to Western clients may offer versatile styles, allowing individuals to choose between classic, volume, or hybrid looks based on personal preferences.

Latin American Eyelash Styling:

Latin American cultures may appreciate styles that combine elegance with a touch of drama. Lash technicians may focus on creating voluminous and expressive lash sets, using varying lengths and curls to enhance the eyes and complement Latin American beauty

STYLING (MAPPING)

Lash mapping is the process of creating a map or blueprint of where you will place eyelash extensions on a client's lash line. This is done by looking at the shape of the eye and natural eyelashes and then planning out which lengths, curls, and thicknesses of lashes will go where.

MOST POPULAR MAPPINGS

Natural

The natural eye mapping will follow the natural growth of the client's lashes. This is a gradual change of shape with no dramatic jumps in length.

• Effect: Looks the most natural

• Recommended on: Almond eyes, round eyes, upturned eyes, any face shape

• Avoid on: Hooded eyes, monolid, downturned eyes

Doll eye /open eye

The longest parts of this map are over the iris (using straight lines), then drop down dramatically on the inner and outer corners.

• Effect: Makes eyes look bigger, corrects downturned eyes

• Recommended on: Almond eyes, monolid, downturned eyes, hooded eyes, wide-set eyes

• Avoid on: Round eyes, upturned eyes, narrow face shape, close-set eyes

Cat eye

Stay shorter in length until you reach the pupil then drastically jump up in length from the center of the eye until the outer corner.

• Effect: Makes eyes look wider, corrects close-set eyes

• Recommended on: Almond eyes, round eyes, upturned eyes, downturned, monolid eyes, hooded eyes, close-set eyes

• Avoid on: Downturned eyes, wide-set eyes

STYLING (EYE SHAPES)

Almond shape eyes

Almond eyes are a very common eye shape. You have this eye shape if the top and bottom of your iris is slightly covered by the top and bottom lids. If you can see the whole of your iris then you are likely to have round eyes.

• Recommended: Clients with almond eyes can wear practically any styling they request. Choosing a map comes down to the effect your client is hoping to achieve (bigger eyes vs elongated shape).

• Pay close attention to the eye angle (up/down), face shape, and direction of the lashes

Round shape eyes

You have round eyes if you can see the whole of your iris and your eyelids do not cover the top or bottom of it. Usually, this shape of eye looks open and bright.

• Recommended: Opt for a natural or cat-eye map. Having the length concentrated toward the outer corners will help elongate the eyes, creating the illusion of a more almond eye shape. Opt for something looser, such as a B curl or C curl, as these will complement the eye shape.

• Avoid: With the wrong lash map, your client can end up looking like they're in a permanent state of shock. Avoid doll and open-eye mapping. Avoid the strongest curls.

Hooded eyes

Hooded eyes feature a heavy brow bone with a deep-set crease. Depending on the size of the hood, the lash line can disappear under the lid, causing the lashes to be tucked under and the bases almost hidden.

• Recommended: Select a curl that extends past the hood of the lid before curling up; this will ensure the effect is noticeable. A specialized curl for this are L, L+ curls.

• Avoid: Avoid strong curls like CC and D curls as these will curl so much that the tips almost blend into the lid, resulting in an unnatural look and possibly even discomfort for your client.

Monolid eyes

Common in Asian women, monolid eyes feature a less apparent crease.

• Recommended: Doll-eye and cat-eye but use longer extensions on the inner corner.

• Avoid: Natural mapping doesn't favor monolid clients.

Upturned

Upturned eyes have outer corners that turn upward and are higher than the inner corner. Also known as "cat eyes," upturned eyes tilt upward, giving the eye an exotic appearance.

• Recommended: Emphasize the eye shape by using cat eye mapping or create a more balanced look by using natural mapping.

• Avoid: Doll/open eye mapping. Be careful if using strong curls like D as it could make their eyes look startled.

Downturned

The outer corners of downturned eyes are lower than the inner corner.

• Recommended: Opt for a doll eye or open eye map.

The length concentrated toward the center of the eye will help to lift it up. Lift the outer corner with a strong curl.

• Avoid: Avoid cat eye styling as length concentrated toward the outer corners can actually emphasize the downturn. As a result, your client may appear sad or sleepy.

STYLING (LASH PLACEMENT)

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF LASH PLACEMENT

Lash placement is a critical aspect of the lash extension process. It involves carefully positioning the lash extensions to ensure they are neither too far from the eyelid nor too close to it. By finding the optimal distance, we can achieve a balance that promotes lash health and enhances the overall aesthetic.

THE IMPACT OF EYELASH EXTENSION PLACEMENT

The placement of eyelash extensions is equally important as it determines the final look and feel of the lashes. When extensions are placed correctly, they create a natural and seamless appearance. However, improper placement can lead to discomfort, irritation, and even damage to the natural lashes.

DETERMINING THE IDEAL DISTANCE

To achieve beautiful and safe lash extensions, it is recommended to maintain a distance of approximately 0.5 to 1mm between the lash extension and the eyelid. This distance allows for comfortable wear, minimizes the risk of adhesive contact with the skin, and ensures optimal lash health.

CORRECT

TOO FAR

INCONSISTENT DISTANCE

TOO CLOSE

IMPORTANCE OF UNIFORM LASH PLACEMENT

Achieving uniform lash placement is key to creating a visually balanced and appealing look.

When all lashes are positioned at the same distance from the eyelid, it results in a cohesive and polished appearance. This uniformity enhances the overall aesthetic of the lash extensions.

THE ROLE OF PROFESSIONAL TRAINING

Proper training and education are essential for lash artists to master lash placement and eyelash extension placement. By enrolling in a reputable training course, lash artists can acquire comprehensive lash knowledge and practical techniques to deliver exceptional results. Professional training ensures the highest standards of safety and quality in lash extensions services.

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