LASH APLICATION
PREPPING
• Cleansing: Use a lint-free applicator or disposable brush to apply a gentle, oil-free cleanser to the client's natural lashes. Gently brush through the lashes to remove any traces of makeup, oils, or residue. Follow below steps-
1. Start by wetting your lashes using a small squirt bottle. To protect your under-eye area, place a clean towel beneath your eye.
2. Take 1-2 pumps of a gentle lash cleanser, making sure it's not baby shampoo as it may not be suitable for extensions. Apply the cleanser to your lashes, ensuring thorough coverage.
3. To clean between the lash extensions, use a lash cleansing brush or a clean makeup brush. Gently work the brush in a downwards motion to remove any dirt or residue, paying attention to the lash line and the eye area
4. Continue to work in a downwards motion, ensuring that the lashes and the surrounding eye area are thoroughly cleansed. Be gentle to avoid any damage or discomfort.
5. Once you have completed the cleansing process, rinse the lashes and the eye area thoroughly with water using the squirt bottle. Make sure all the cleanser is removed.
6. After rinsing, pat the lashes dry with a clean towel. To ensure complete drying, use a fan or a hairdryer on the cool air setting. Avoid using hot air as it may damage the extensions.
7. Once the lashes are dry, comb and fluff them using a clean mascara wand. This step helps to separate and fluff the lashes, giving them a fuller appearance.
• Priming: An eyelash primer is a pre-treatment product that helps create better retention for lash extensions by coating the natural lashes with a thin layer of primer before applying them. It makes the extensions adhere better to each individual lash so that they stay in place longer without falling out prematurely. The main purpose of using an eyelash extension primer is to help extend the life of your extensions by creating a stronger bond between them and your own natural lashes while also helping reduce irritation or discomfort caused by regular glue adhesives alone.
Here are the summarized steps that you will learn in detail in our eyelash extensions classes:
1. Using a lash extension primer is easy and straightforward:
2. You will need to clean the natural lashes with an oil-free cleanser to remove any makeup residue or oils that may be present.
3. Apply a small amount of the primer onto each individual lash using an applicator wand.
4. Allow the primer to dry completely before applying any adhesive.
5. Once the primer has dried, you can begin applying your eyelash extensions using your preferred method and glue.
Shaking Glue: Prior to use, shake the lash extension adhesive vigorously for at least 1 min.
There are three important reasons to mention when you perform the action of shaking your adhesive. It only takes a few minutes, but the results of eyelash extensions with properly shaken lash extension glue will be entirely different from those without shaking the adhesive.
1. Mix the ingredients in the glue: In eyelash adhesive, there are three main chemical components: cyanoacrylate, methanol, and polymer. These substances have different molecular weights and chemical properties, so over time during transportation and waiting, they can separate from each other. At this point, if a lash tech doesn't shake the adhesive to mix these components evenly before direct use, it can lead to the nozzle of the adhesive, a common issue we often see
2. Reduce the lifespan of the eyelash extensions: The second reason why you need shaking your lash adhesive is related to the longevity of eyelash extensions. Customers can be extremely disappointed when they invest their time and money in getting eyelash extensions that only last a week. You can extend that period to 3-4 weeks if you shake the adhesive before use. This is because, as I mentioned earlier, the components of the adhesive can separate. So, when you use it without shaking it thoroughly, you might pick up areas of the adhesive that don't contain cyanoacrylate. Clearly, this will compromise the bonding quality, causing the eyelash extensions to fall out more quickly.
3. Affecting to the appropriate time for glue to dry: The final reason I want you to remember the importance of shaking your lash adhesive is also a consequence of the adhesive components separating. When this happens, the amount of cyanoacrylate you pick up from the adhesive won't be consistent, leading to different drying times for each adhesive spot. This affects the uniformity of the eyelash extensions and can result in an uneven look. Additionally, while it usually takes only 1-2 seconds for a single adhesive point to dry under normal circumstances, when you don't shake the adhesive, each adhesive point may take an additional 3-5 seconds to dry. Although 5-7 seconds might seem like a small amount of time individually, when you consider the entire set of eyelash extensions, it adds up. You may receive complaints or frustration from clients due to the extra time it takes. Time is precious!
TAPPING
Lash extension tape is specialized adhesive tape used by lash artists to assist during application. It helps lift the eyelid, preventing eye fluttering for better visibility. It's also used with eye patches to tape down bottom lashes, preventing adhesive contact and keeping lashes separated.
Types of lash extension tape:
• Micropore tape: Micropore tape is a common and widely used type of lash extension tape.
It's made from paper and is known for its breathable nature. It conforms well to the shape of the eye, providing a comfortable fit for clients. With a moderate adhesive strength, this type of lash tape securely holds down bottom lashes without causing any damage or discomfort. Micropore lash tape is easy to remove, leaving no residue behind.
• Surgical tape: Surgical tape is another popular choice among lash artists. Unlike micropore tape, it is usually made of non-woven fabric material and offers an excellent adhesion. It is particularly suitable for securing and taping down the bottom lashes, but due to its slightly less breathable nature, it may cause a bit of discomfort during prolonged wear to some clients.
• Foam tape: Foam lash tape is thicker and provides more cushioning to protect the under-eye area. It is especially beneficial for clients with deep-set eyes or prominent brow bones, as it prevents any pressure or contact between the adhesive and the skin.
Lash taping methods:
• Criss Cross tapping method: The criss-cross method involves placing two pieces of lash extension tape in a cross pattern. One piece is applied to the inner corner, and the other to the outer corner, effectively securing the bottom lashes and gel patches in place. This technique ensures there is no room for the bottom lashes to escape or the gel patches to slide during the lash application process.
• Inner Corner reveal tapping method: This method focuses on improving accessibility to the inner corner lashes. A piece of tape is applied horizontally on the inner eyelid, and the eyelid is gently pulled towards the outer corner. By doing so, the lash artist gains better visibility and ease while working with the inner corner lashes.
• Straight lift method: Perfect for clients with hooded or mature eyes, this technique involves placing the tape vertically along the lash line and pulling it upwards to lift the lash line. By lifting the lash line, the lash artist gains increased visibility and ease when applying extensions to the natural lashes. In the straight lift method, one piece of tape is placed in the middle of the lash line or two pieces at the inner and outer corners. This technique lifts the natural lashes, making them more accessible for extension application.
• Cross lift method: In this method, the tape is applied diagonally on the inner and outer corners, creating a criss-cross pattern on the upper eye. This technique is beneficial for ensuring lash isolation and securing the gel patches during the procedure.
HOLDING TWEEZERS
Mastering the art of eyelash extension tweezers requires knowledge, skill, and practice. The right choice of tweezers and proper handling are crucial for achieving flawless lash extensions.
This step-by-step guide will help you understand the different types of eyelash extension tweezers, choose the right ones for your technique, and provide tips for their proper handling and maintenance. We will also provide a detailed step-by-step guide to mastering the use of eyelash extension tweezers, along with troubleshooting common issues that may arise. With these insights and techniques, you can enhance your lash extension skills and deliver stunning results to your clients.
As a professional lash technician, you'll need two tweezers for each application. The isolation tweezer is held in the non-dominant hand. If you're right-handed, you will hold the isolation tweezer in your left hand. But if you're a lefty like me, the isolation tweezer will be held in your right hand.
The dominant hand will be doing all of the detailed work (especially when working with volumes!). Your dominant hand will be used to hold the volume lash tweezer or straight tweezer that will be picking up lashes, making fans, dipping them in glue and applying them.
Wow, that's a lot for one hand! That's why it's so important to make sure we're holding the eyelash tweezer properly.
With your dominant hand use your thumb and ring finger to squeeze the tweezers together.
You will have more strength and precision by holding the lash tweezers closer to the bottom.
The index finger is higher up on the tweezer, offering support. There should be 3 fingers in contact with the eyelash extension tweezer for the best support. Holding the tweezers higher and without the ring finger will result in poor control of the lash tweezer. This can cause fans to fall apart, lashes to twist sideways, or extension to fall right out of the tweezers grip.
Using the ring finger to squeeze the tweezers towards the thumb helps to alleviate a lot of strain on the tiny muscles in the hand and wrist area. Our first instinct is usually to pick up the eyelash tweezer and hold it like a pen. However, this doesn't control the tweezer very well and can lead to unnecessary strain on the hand and even carpel tunnel over time.
STICKIES
The term "stickies" is used in the lash industry to describe when lashes are glued together or stuck together. Lash stickies can be a real nightmare if we don't fix them, wreaking havoc on the client's natural lashes.
Lash stickies occur when one of the following happens:
• Two lash extensions are stuck together
• A bottom lash gets stuck to an upper lash extension
• A lash extension is glued to more than 1 natural lash
• Two natural lashes are glued together
How do you check for lash Stickies?
1. Comb and gently lift upper lashes to make sure none are stuck to the bottom lashes. The eye should remain closed. The back side of your closed tweezers or the lash comb can be used to lift up those upper lashes.
2. Next, file through all the lashes with both sets of tweezers. Check for any lashes that are glued together, or glued to multiple natural lashes.
3. Use a lash mirror to get a better look, especially when checking the bottom lashes.
How do you fix sticky eyelash extensions?
When applying eyelash extensions, you'll have two sets of lash tweezers. These are going to be your best friends when removing an eyelash sticky.
• One tweezer will be used to hold one of the lashes.
• The other will hold the extension or lash that it has been glued to.
• Make sure your grip is firm, yet gentle on the lashes you'd like to separate.
• Next, gently peel the two lashes apart, being careful not to pull too hard on the natural lash.
• It's ok if the lash extension pops off. A new one can be applied.
• Removing lash stickies is the most important thing
Sometimes you'll want to use one tweezer to gently wiggle in between the two lashes. As long as you are calm and patient, stickies can be easy and pain free to remove!
How do you prevent lash stickies?
One of the best ways we can deal with eyelash extensions being glued together, is to prevent them from happening in the first place. Here are a few tips on how you can prevent eyelash stickies:
• Make sure all bottom lashes are secured. Use lash tape over top of the eye pads if needed.
Micropore lash tape helps a lot especially on client's with curly eyelashes or short lashes.
• Isolate properly. Double check that the lash is properly isolated before applying the extension. Find a pair of isolation tweezers that helps make your job easier. Using lash tape can help with isolating as well.
• Use a glue with the right dry time. Another reason stickies happen, is that the glue is not drying at the same rate as your working speed. If you are applying lashes in 1-2 seconds a 3-4 second glue will cause eyelashes to get stuck together. Check your timing if you are having issues with stickies.
ISOLATION
Isolation in eyelash extensions refers to the process of separating individual natural lashes from one another before applying the extension. This is done to ensure that each extension is attached to a single natural lash, preventing them from sticking together and creating clumps or clusters. Isolation is a crucial step in the lash extension application process as it allows for precise placement and ensures a seamless, natural-looking result.
Why is isolating important?
It's not just about doing things the right way aesthetically speaking, it's about safeguarding the client's natural lashes too. When you skip correct isolation, you're setting the stage for those previously mentioned "stickies" to make an appearance. A stickie is a lash industry term which refers to two or more lashes being stuck together. These stickies can cause strain on the hair follicles, leading to lashes being pulled out prematurely and discomfort for your clients as their natural lashes grow and tug at each other. If stickies are left unchecked and unseparated, you run the risk of permanently damaging the lashes right from the bulb, weakening the hairs and causing them to grow back weaker and finer than ever before, if they even grow back at all
Additionally, becoming a pro at isolation also means your lash extensions will have a uniform, natural appearance. When you isolate correctly, those extensions can naturally shed in harmony with the natural lash growth cycle. Isolating the lashes also means that you can apply each extension at the perfect distance from the eyelid, which in turn will result in a neater top line and you will have an easier time getting through the layers so you can achieve better coverage when lashing.
Isolating with tweezers:
Good isolation and proper placement require a steady hand. After all, you are using tools close to someone's eyes - not only do you want a seamless outcome, but you want to keep your clients safe too. A good pair of Isolation Tweezers will give you the precision and comfort to isolate like a pro in almost no time.
Isolating with tape:
It's important that you don't confuse this tip as the sole way of isolating lashes - you of course need to use your trusty pair of tweezers to isolate each and every time. But, if your client has very dense natural lashes, so much so that you struggle with complete coverage, or if you find yourself a little short for time, this is where Tape is your handy isolation tool.
Using Micropore Tape can be a time saver in tricky situations, if you're working in layers and you want to isolate the client's lashes so that you can be precise, especially when using different lengths (or even colours) of extensions on each layer, you can simply tape back the client's lashes and with your isolation tweezers of choice begin to pull through the lashes layer by layer.
Alternatively, to save some time during a lash fill, use some tape to gently lift back the lashes which already have extensions and the unlashed natural lashes will be easy to see and apply new extensions to.
PICKING UP AN EXTENSION
1. Preparation:
- Before picking up an extension, ensure that you have all your tools ready, including your tweezers and adhesive.
- Shake the adhesive bottle well to ensure proper mixing of the adhesive components.
2. Proper Grip:
- Hold the eyelash extension tweezers between your thumb and index finger, similar to holding a pencil.
- Ensure that you have a relaxed grip to prevent hand fatigue during the application process.
3. Selecting an Extension:
- Use the tweezers to pick up a single eyelash extension from the lash tray.
- Carefully grip the extension near the middle or base, ensuring that you do not touch the adhesive-coated portion of the extension.
4. Dipping into Adhesive:
- Dip the base of the extension into the adhesive, ensuring that only a small amount of adhesive is applied.
- Avoid submerging the entire extension into the adhesive, as this can lead to excess glue and clumping.
5. Removing Excess Adhesive:
- Gently swipe the base of the extension against the side of the adhesive container to remove any excess glue.
- Ensure that the base of the extension is evenly coated with a thin layer of adhesive.
6. Proper Placement:
- Position the extension parallel to the natural lash line, ensuring that it follows the curvature of the natural lashes.
- Use the tweezers to carefully place the extension onto the natural lash, approximately 0.5 to 1 mm away from the eyelid.
7. Release:
- Release the extension from the tweezers by gently opening the tweezers and pulling away.
- Ensure that the extension is securely bonded to the natural lash before moving on to the next lash.
8. Repeat:
- Repeat the process for each natural lash, picking up a single extension, applying adhesive, and placing it onto the natural lash.
- Take your time to ensure precision and accuracy with each placement, avoiding clumping or overlapping of extensions.
9. Adjustments:
- If necessary, use the tweezers to adjust the position of the extension before the adhesive sets.
- Ensure that the extension is aligned properly and sits flush against the natural lash for a seamless blend.
10. Final Check:
- Once all extensions are applied, perform a final check to ensure that each extension is securely bonded and properly positioned.
- Use a lash mirror or magnifying lamp to inspect your work and make any necessary adjustments.
DIRECTION
The direction you place the extensions will impact on the final look. Eyelash extensions are all about enhancing your client's eyes and creating a style that suits them. For example, if your client has wide set eyes, the aim is to enhance so you would make the lash direction either slightly tilted or straight. You would not want to direct the lashes towards the outer corners of their eyes as this would simply give the appearance of their eyes being even more wide set then they already are.
Four ways of directing lash placement:
• Slanted direction outwards
• Slanted inwards
• Straight placement
• Combined directions
Placement
• Extensions must be placed along with the natural eyelash, 0.5mm-0.1mm away from the skin along the lash line. If the extensions are not correctly placed at the distance required, this can result in two issues.
• First, you will be too far out along the natural lash, leaving a visible gap. This will make it look like the client has had 2 - 3 weeks of lash growth and they are requiring infills.
• Alternatively, if the lash extension is placed too close to the skin, you may have the opposite concern. In this case, the lash will rub every time that the client opens and closes their eye. Even blinking will feel like they have sand rubbing in their eye.
• This can be extremely uncomfortable and may even lead to swelling, redness, and puffiness to the eye area.
• As you can see, the incorrect eyelash application can cause all kinds of issues to the eye area and skin surrounding it. To avoid causing serious damage, doing your research, and having the correct training in the lash application is crucial.
How to Improve the Direction:
• Make sure you know how you want to place the extensions and what direction you want them in before starting a new set. It is easier to keep to the correct direction with infills as you can already see the direction of the eyelash extensions remaining.
• Be careful with your placement. It is important to always ensure you place the eyelash extension on to the natural lash the same distance from the client's lid. It should not be any more than 0.5 - 0.6 mm. If the distance is further than 0.5 - 06 mm the extensions will slope downwards and effect how long they last plus the finished result.
• How to decide the direction / angle: the outer side of the eye should be the maximum, the middle around a 5 - 7 degree angle and the inner side around a 3 - 4 degree angle.
• Once you have attached the eyelash extension to your client's lash, avoid touching or moving the lash for at least 30 seconds. This is important as it can affect the direction of the lash you have placed. We recommend that you move onto another area to avoid nocking the lash or moving on to the other eye.
FLUTTERY EYES
Fluttering lids during eyelash extension applications can be challenging for both the technician and the client. However, with a few effective techniques and creating a calming environment, you can minimize lid fluttering and enhance the overall lash extension experience. In this blog post, we will provide you with expert tips and strategies to address fluttering lids during eyelash extension appointments. So, if you're looking for ways to ensure a smoother and more successful lash application, keep reading.
Use an upside-down eye pad for added weight: One practical technique to combat fluttering lids is by utilizing an upside-down under eye pad. Foam lash tape can also be used for a similar affect. By placing this pad over the lid, you add a slight amount of extra weight, which helps to stabilize the lid and reduce fluttering. This small adjustment can make a significant difference in reducing eyelids twitching during eyelash extension application.
Advice client to avoid caffeine: For clients with particularly fluttery lids, recommend avoiding caffeine consumption before their appointment. Caffeine is a stimulant that can exacerbate nervousness and restlessness, leading to increased fluttering of the eyelids. Everyone is different, and this can have more of an effect on some people. Encourage clients to opt for caffeine-free alternatives, such as herbal teas or decaffeinated beverages, in the hours leading up to their lash appointment.
Create a relaxing environment: Another crucial aspect of reducing lid fluttering is to establish a calming and soothing atmosphere during the eyelash extension session. Clients who feel relaxed and at ease are less likely to experience fluttering lids caused by nervousness or stress. Consider playing soft background music, using gentle lighting, and maintaining a comfortable temperature in the lash studio to promote relaxation.
Practice mindful communication: As an eyelash extension technician, it's vital to communicate with your clients throughout the process and address any concerns they may have. Reassure them that fluttering lids are a common occurrence and that you are well-prepared to handle them. By instilling confidence and providing a supportive environment, you can alleviate client anxiety and help minimize lid fluttering.
Hydrate Well: Encourage clients to drink plenty of water before their appointment. Proper hydration can help promote relaxation and reduce nervousness, potentially minimizing lid fluttering.
Practice Deep Breathing: Teach clients simple deep breathing techniques they can use during the appointment to help calm their nerves and reduce fluttering. Instruct them to take slow, deep breaths in through the nose and out through the mouth.
Limit Screen Time: Advise clients to minimize screen time, particularly on electronic devices, leading up to their appointment. Excessive screen exposure can contribute to eye strain and restlessness, potentially exacerbating lid fluttering
Avoid Heavy Meals: Recommend clients to avoid consuming heavy meals or large amounts of food shortly before their appointment. A full stomach can lead to discomfort and distract from relaxation efforts, potentially increasing lid fluttering.
Practice Relaxation Techniques: Suggest clients engage in relaxation techniques such as meditation, gentle stretching, or listening to calming music in the hours leading up to their appointment. These activities can help promote a sense of calm and reduce nervousness.
FANNING
Easy fanning volume lashes are specially designed to help save time when making volume fans. They have a small amount of sticky adhesive at the base of the lashes, that is easy to work with but also prevents the bases of fans from falling apart. One of the biggest issues lash tech's have when making volume fans is that the bases fall apart. Easy fans are designed to save time during custom volume lash sets. A good tray of easy fan lashes will shimmy and spread apart so easily, saving time while making custom volume lash fans.
How do you use easy fan lashes:
Easy fanning lashes are great for beginners. There are multiple techniques that can be used to create a volume fan with self-fanning lashes. The shimmy technique is the most popular as it tends to be the fastest method.
1. Use your volume tweezers to grab the desired number of lashes
2. Applying a light pressure, shimmy back and forth and the lashes will quickly star to fan out
3. Close the tweezers fulling getting a gentle but firm grip on the fan
4. Tilt the tweezer backwards slightly, and pick the fan up off the strip,
Easy fans can also be made using the pinching technique, a volume dot, or the sticky strip method.
MISTING
Misting is often used at the end of the eyelash extension process. It involves spraying a light, water-based mist or specialized sealant over the completed set to help cure the adhesive and secure the bond between the natural lashes and extensions. While some lash artists swear by this technique, others (like myself) prefer not to use it, as it can sometimes cause sensitivity in clients with delicate eyes. Ultimately, whether or not to mist comes down to personal preference and client comfort.
Benefits of Misting:
• Sets the Adhesive: Misting helps to cure the adhesive, ensuring that the lash extensions stay securely bonded to the natural lashes.
• Enhances Retention: Properly set adhesive leads to better retention of the lash extensions, prolonging their lifespan.
• Comfort for Clients: Misting provides a cooling and refreshing sensation for clients, enhancing their overall comfort during the application process.
How to Misting:
1. Choose the Sealant or Mist: Select a specialized lash extension sealant or a water-based mist specifically formulated for use with eyelash extensions. These products are designed to set the adhesive without compromising its effectiveness.
2. Prepare the Workspace: Ensure that your workspace is clean and well-ventilated. Place the sealant or mist within easy reach.
3. Position the Client: Ask the client to close their eyes gently to prevent any mist from coming into contact with their eyes.
4. Application Technique:
• Hold the sealant or mist bottle approximately 12-18 inches away from the client's closed eyes.
• Use a gentle, sweeping motion to mist over the completed lash extensions. Ensure even coverage across all lashes.
5. Avoid Excess Wetting: Be careful not to over-mist the lashes, as excessive wetting can compromise the adhesive's effectiveness. A light misting is sufficient to set the adhesive.
6. Allow to Dry: After misting, allow the lashes to air dry naturally. Avoid using any fans or blowing air directly onto the lashes, as this can disrupt the adhesive bonding process.
7. Final Inspection: Once the misting is complete and the lashes have dried, perform a final inspection to ensure that all lashes are securely bonded and properly positioned.